Olivier Rousteing has worked for 15 years, 13 of which as creative director, and has written his signature in the history of the Balmain house. But only now has he picked up his pen and started scribbling. “Yes, that’s my writing,” he confirmed about the elegant cursive script that was handcrafted on the pre-collections of these men and women. “When I was in school, the calligraphy classes were one of my favorites.”
Here his text served to underline signatures that were both long-standing and seasonal. In the large-letter reproduction – ‘Je t’aime’ – it snaked across the front of a trompe l’oeil-shaded, nude-effect crystal-embroidered dress. In brass-colored metal brooches it shone on the chest of a snow-white boucle jacket. In intarsia, it ran across the chest of a monochrome T-shirt blouse with piped sleeves and sportswear details, as well as a collarless fitted jacket. It was a riot about dresses with peplum backings, chic separates and shirts, and outerwear with sweeping lapels. In menswear it also appeared in metal bracelets, cropped bikers and a tunic top in which Rousteing’s point simultaneously marked the ‘t’ of his declaration of love and the deep V-neck of the garment. The ‘A’ in ‘Amour’ fulfilled the opposite role in a wonderfully regal coat with a heavy script at the end. “Toujours,” Rousteing wrote across the edge of the crystal-etched torso trompe l’oeil that covered the right side of the closing jacket.
This manuscript told a collection bursting with witty, self-reflexive details. Pincushions were reproduced as amulets, jewelry, and hardware on shoes. Tape measures were reimagined as spiral metal earrings and curved neckpieces. Rousteing introduced bags with openings in the neckline of sweatshirts, leather bikers spliced with denim truckers and double-neck sweaters. During our phone conversation, Rousteing said his billet-doux was designed to be read as an exploration of “my love for Balmain and my love for the atelier.” When I designed it, I also thought about when you’ve been married for so long and renew your vows to show everyone that you still feel that love. This is Balmain, and this is my love letter.’ Consider his message signed, sealed and delivered: that Rousteing left his mark on Balmain is beyond question.