“It’s not a nostalgic or special prism of a woman,” said Louise Trotter, when asked how Carven’s legacy informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with today’s convenience.”
Trotter has shown two runway collections since arriving at Carven. But the oddity of the timing leading up to the collection makes this the first glimpse of fall that customers can get their hands on — and not just at the Carven boutique or Net-a-Porter, but at a broader range of retailers.
If there is any respect for the archive, it is with a light touch. Trotter in particular seems most interested in the 1950s column silhouette, which she can expand slightly in trousers or adjust proportionately with a more contemporary, tonal layering of a tank dress over a T-shirt.
As we browsed the lineup, it seemed notable that the first and last looks appeared to be the same roomy, softly tailored coat, the former in double-faced cashmere, the latter in chocolate wool gabardine. These deftly affirmed what she described as her masculine hand, while establishing that a masculine sensibility can be transformed into feminine silhouettes. See also the double-breasted jacket and turtleneck that give way to a gauzy underskirt, which Trotter explained as her ongoing exploration of dressing and undressing. The full-length black dress with unzippable straps – leaving a section to brush down the arm if desired – distills this endeavor into a single, highly desirable piece.
Because so few of us have had the opportunity to interact with the brand, the item descriptions illustrate that the tangibility of the fabric is important to Trotter; that a sheepskin sweatshirt or technical Prince of Wales trousers go beyond basic. The discovery that two recurring (and wearable) shoe designs bear historic names—Vendome for the square slippers and Garnier for the quilted slippers—is a nice reminder that the house has always been part of the Parisian constellation of couturiers.
As Trotter guides us to a Carven that feels refined yet within reach, we also see her own evolution in streamlined sportswear. “I want to find solutions for her life, just like I do for myself,” she said. “For me it’s instinctive. These are pieces that I appreciate and want to wear.” Other women will do that too.