“A designer must take climate change into account,” said Ermanno Scervino as he reviewed his new pre-collection. “I understand the poetic needs, the search for modernity, but we work for people. And the fact that I built this wardrobe on many small pieces is also due to global warming.” Combining sophisticated minimalism with urban energy, the Italian creative evoked the dreamscapes of Helmut Newton and Peter Lindbergh to build on his idea of a woman who, switching between self-control and a natural sense of freedom, wears lingerie under shearlings .
Scervino used cashmere for lingerie this season, nodding to the influence of Elizabeth Taylor. “It touched me to see her acting in a slip dress,” he explained. Since femininity was both his starting point and end goal, the knitted sheepskin and shirt with guipure details further emphasized the balance of contrasts. The construction of the garments was revealed through exploration of proportion, with the overlapping volume of oversized jackets becoming fitted dresses or miniskirts, and hints of masculinity completed the look.
The color palette also played on the concept of polarity, moving from velvety black to optic white, accentuating the three-dimensionality of the fabrics. Herringbone wool, tweed and double mélange were reinterpreted with a softness that caressed the body, transforming materials into cut-out 3D surfaces. “I love high heels with a long dress, but I also love loafers and socks, somewhere between sport and elegance. Scervino concluded.