Like many of his colleagues in Shanghai, Haizhen Wang has been hard to work on the runway aimed at the commercial side of his company. During a Walkthrough of his new collection, he said that he returned in the 1980s for inspiration, in particular the inverted triangular silhouette of a sharp, wide shoulder and a narrow waist, which was seen about the autumn show from New York to Paris.
Wang is a real maker, besides being a designer, so his research into this style of dressing was about the performances in popular culture (see Working girl) and more rooted in updating the construction. The way he treated the shoulder was especially worth pointing up. His jackets were cut wide but made to large with the natural shoulder line, with the emphasis on the body instead of flooding in dust. On his outerwear – such as a spacious cheetah jacket combined with a cheetah skirt in a different tonality – he rounded out the shoulder instead of letting him protrude. This was made in balance with long layers of tailor -made, but with extra pointed peak stewles to maintain the retro atmosphere of the collection.
To add a layer of interest and to break the dressiness of the Line -Up, Wang ran a substance that he designed ten years ago when he was established in London, a map of the city that was developed as a print, displayed here as a really beautiful crops denim in a distressing jacquard. Wang makes clothing that belongs on the runway, but it is satisfactory to see him translate his skills into a more commercial space so seamless.