Home Fashion Khoki Tokyo Spring 2025 Collection

Khoki Tokyo Spring 2025 Collection

by trpliquidation
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Koki Abe and his team were happy to be on the list of nominees for this year’s LVMH Prize, but it was easy to detect a hint of disappointment that they didn’t make the final shortlist. “[The judges] were impressed by our silhouettes and liked the Indian embroidery, but kept asking us ‘who are you?’” they said during a walkthrough of their spring collection. “We had difficulty explaining our identity to them. This collection is about us showing what we learned through that experience.”

And so on. This time the team took flea markets as a starting point. It was appropriate; each season, Khoki takes a bag of references that loosely revolve around embroidery and tailoring, and shakes them all together in a collaborative effort. Check out the quilt-print trousers and Cuban collar shirts, faded suits covered in sports patches and dark tailoring with sheer floral embroidered checks. Everything is vaguely nostalgic, but somehow also sharply contemporary; the kind of things you can imagine digging up at a flea market that gives you a feeling of “hey, this is special.”

Khoki’s work is also somewhat like a team diary, and the way they draw inspiration can be disarmingly direct. Last season they tucked maps from a group trip to Europe into the lining of jackets, and this time they turned their attention to their recent experiences in Paris. “We laughed because most of the people at LVMH were wearing vintage Carhartts [when we met them],” they said. “So we took inspiration from that too.” Corduroy collared jackets and blank beige leather patches on hoodies were nods to the American workwear brand. It was a nice example of Khoki’s innate sass and ingenuity; the team knows how to turn lemons into lemonade.

It’s true that the brand’s output can feel a little uninhibited and unwieldy at times, and they’re still figuring out who they are. So a little help: what the Khoki team does is not really about embroidery or sewing (although they are both good), but about capturing the analog charm of a group of talented friends who put themselves honestly and completely into their clothes that they want to wear. to make. Price or not, Khoki remains one of the most interesting under-the-radar brands of the moment.

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