The applause at the end of the debut of Peter Copping in Lanvin said a lot about how happy people are to see him again. Task to bring new relevance for the house that has (politely) lost the focus since Alber Elbaz left, Copping has decided to take his imaginative lead of the example of Jeanne Lanvin and its rich 1920s and 30 Legacy.
Where has this appeared now? Whiz to the end of the show, to the shiny cascades of gold-on-black antique-looking side. In one version it is a kind of apron, worn over gilded pants. And then, the golden metallic lurex dress with a full, posed skirt-a reincarnation by Jeanne Lanvin’s fashion-putting Robe the style silhouette, but with the sensitivity of coping, both modern and magical.
Copping has only scratched the surface of the potential he has found. Part of it is the extrapolate of graphic patterns from the Art Deco era and deepening in the glittering embroidery archive. An example: a silver mirror-defendant T-shirt with long sleeves made as a piece of excellent evening clothes for a man.
Other ideas for germs come from recurring forms that Copping has identified. Capes on evening dresses were a Lanvin signature. One was cut like a shoulder length black velvet cape with a deep glamorous mesh work made of silver studs, placed over a pure black blouse and worn with pants.
Copping is a designer of Ace Dress – a most important qualification for a house known for its soft design. His range reaches from couture-like spiral-shaped ribbon dresses (a Tour de Force) to looser print and zigzag dévoré velvet, and then, gracefully custom-made jacket shapes.
It is a pity that more of his day clothes does not pop up in the catwalk photos – seeing clothes against a black background is a show productive error. In real time, however, the Peacoats of Copping, black leather overcoat with a fallen waist belt (a nod to the row coats from the 1920s), and especially a soft, flowing channel were considerably great designs.
There was a lot to take – a lot of variation in 62 looks, a lot for men. In addition to that silver flash of evening schittering, it was more difficult to see where Copping would put his stamp on men’s clothing. It is his first time in that area; More will certainly arise. What is clear is that he has no shortage of ideas and a lot of love for the house. Making a noise for a designer nowadays has largely fallen out of fashion, because people are usually so bent on video finals on their phones, they no longer clap. But on this occasion – a big one for the brand – confirmed, smiles and oops for the handles of everywhere.