Maria McManus is a designer who feels things deeply. Discouraged by the current state of the world, she found solace – and inspiration – in a short poem by Emily Dickinson that reads: “In this short life that lasts but an hour / How much – how little – is within our power.” McManus hadn’t studied the American poet at school (“Literally every writer and poet we studied was a man,” she recalled from her studies in Ireland), so she immersed herself in the world of Dickinson and eventually came up with a White Dress against those formerly belonging to the poet. “This is the only piece of clothing they’ve ever found that was hers, and it’s absolutely beautiful,” she said, showing a photo on an iPad. “All these lace and embroidery details, the pockets were really beautiful – everything was just very carefully put together. So that was the inspiration for the collection.”
However, there was no trace of Victoriana to be found in the shelves set up in her Tribeca apartment. Instead, she took her starting point as a way to continue her exploration of craft, which began with the Spring 2025 collection. Lace played a starring role, of course, but she grounded the delicate fabric in practical silhouettes; an easy pencil skirt with a drawstring waist and delicate lingerie-like stitching, a blouse with ¾ sleeves and a delicate cocoon inset at the back that created a geometric contrast through the fabric overlay. The lace was also used in the bust of a series of very simple and devastatingly chic dresses, inspired by vintage dresses, which were once again modernized through the use of fabric. These featured a body made from McManus’ favorite Naia Renew twill (made from 60% recyclable materials), which has a glossy finish and a heavy drape that lays softly across the body without revealing what lies beneath the way vintage silk is so can often do. She also created a hip abstract print from the negative space of the lace, which she used on a shirt dress worn over trousers, like modern pajamas.
Electricity was provided by a bold shade of fuchsia that shocked the surrounding area, and which McManus seemed to have fun with. A short structured change had a modern spirit; McManus cleverly paired it with her khaki pants for a cooler-than-cool effect. Designers often talk about offering ‘elevated basics’, but she really delivered this season with her take on the cotton T-shirt: it’s fitted and has charming sleeves that don’t quite reach the elbow, and is made from a blend of cotton and Naia. Refresh. Easy enough, except when you touch it, the fabric has a soft velvety feel. That’s the great thing about McManus: she makes great clothes to live in, but their appeal lies in more intangible things; such as the time and effort it takes to find the right materials. Even something as simple as a white t-shirt.