Home Fashion MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Menswear Collection

MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Menswear Collection

by trpliquidation
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The MM6 collective did everything it could to be a guest designer at Pitti Uomo in Florence this season. If they felt the pressure that comes with presenting in a city known as “the fashion capital of smart menswear,” as they admitted backstage, what might have made them more self-conscious was the knowledge that they would be compared to the memorable Pitti collection by Martin Margiela. at Teatro Puccini. That fall 2006 show was done all in white, with models arriving in limousines or on Vespas and entering through the theater’s main entrance before standing on stage and then making their way into the watching crowd.

Located at dusk in the Tepidarium del Roster, a large glass greenhouse built in the late 19th century in Florence’s Giardino dell’Orticoltura, this almost all-black show stood in stark contrast to the venue’s whimsical Art Nouveau architecture . It also served as a counterpoint, and perhaps an unsentimental yet elegant tribute, to Margiela’s all-white Situationist outing 19 years ago. Models walked along a raised platform before mingling with the crowd after the show’s finale.

The collection unfolded as a sleek, sophisticated and sensual reinterpretation of classic menswear styles, described by the collective’s spokesperson as “evocative of different shades of masculinity.” Marking the first full MM6 men’s show, the clothes reimagined traditional male archetypes with a distinct Margiela twist. Linen was coated and rubberized to imitate black leather; a tuxedo suit was made of turquoise lurex with tinsel splitting at the seams (“precious but also shitty”), and black denim was airbrushed to give the effect of being side-lit by a fading spotlight. These theatrical touches were also a nod to the stylish stage persona of Miles Davis, whose extensive, carefully curated wardrobe featured on the team’s mood board.

The collection carried a charged undercurrent of nods, apparently inspired by Venus in furLeopold von Sacher-Masoch’s infamous novella about the interplay of subjugation and domination, appropriately set in Florence. The city, as described by the design team spokesperson, is imbued with ‘a tension between the sublime and the ugly’, a tonal, raw sexual energy subtly infused into the collection via sleek leather whips that hang on the sides of the trousers dangled, tight black chiffon ties secured with cool leather straps and the occasional tuft of femme faux mink. To complete the picture, the rather appropriate soundtrack included Pulp’s ‘This is hardcore’. Overall, this was a glossier take on Margiela’s industrial edge, packed with confident sexy cool.

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