Hiding in plain sight. To enter Umit Benan’s relaxed, soft showroom, you had to pass through an imposing, cold, steel door. Behind it, an escape from the chaotic environment of Milan: warm, cozy furnishings and a small courtyard full of greenery that gave way to a discovery of finely tailored garments that perfectly complemented the surroundings. “That’s not us quiet luxury”, noted the designer. “We have a Californian attitude that is visible in the silhouettes, combined with an Italian product that is synonymous with the highest quality.” The winds of change are blowing at Umit Benan; While previous seasons were inspired by specific characters – mainly from Latin America – luxury now remains the truth file rouge, involving less creativity and implementing more customized approaches.
“I had completely lost the relationship with the customer,” Benan explained of his new focus on building a wardrobe tailored to his customers. The relaxed fit remains a relevant feature, but can now be tailored to the wearer: based on word of mouth alone, this service now accounts for almost 60% of its sales. That’s part of the reason why the designer has opened a retail space in central Milan, which he hopes to have operational by December next year. The store will be divided into two different areas. One will be dedicated to selling the seasonal collection, while the other will be an appointment-only studio that will also include bar services and personal styling.
The innovations at Umit Benan also include an interest in denim. “We tried to design a few prototypes of jeans, but none were completely convinced,” Benan revealed. “I’m looking for a gap – whether it’s washes or silhouettes – that can be filled in the market.” There was also a new approach to knitting: by working with one of the five factories in Italy that make circular knits, Benan introduced jersey characterized by flexibility and lightness without the use of elastane.
With a color palette of predominantly tomato red and azzurro inspired by the ’80s, these less saturated shades exuded lightness and perfectly complemented the designer’s loose silhouettes. The addition of black and white created harmony, while he played with textures that radiated brightness. In particular, his use of mixed fibers, such as linen mixed with silk or wool, or cotton mixed with silk, were some favorites in the collection.