When it comes to pre-collections, Jun Takahashi is not a man of many words. If his runways are emotional and overflowing with stories that invite a multitude of interpretations, the lookbooks for his off-seasons contain little or no explanation. This clothing is less experimental and more rooted in everyday life. The message seems to be: if the catwalks are meant to make you daydream, the pre-collections offer what you wear with them.
This time, Takahashi did send an email: “We wanted to create everyday clothing that is relaxed, yet incorporates Undercover’s signature techniques.” When asked about the similarities between this collection and his great fall ready-to-wear show – with its smoothed everyday trompe l’oeil uniforms and windswept layers – he added: “Over the past few seasons, a core concept has been to integrate Undercover’s distinct style in wearable designs. This applied to the previous autumn/winter collection and continues in this pre-collection.”
Here, Takahashi expanded on fall’s trompe l’oeil concept with t-shirts lined with the top half of jeans and jackets ending in pleated panels reminiscent of skirts, demystifying his runway story by making it simpler and more wearable without taking away its charm. He has also cut the shoulders and sides of sweatshirts and midi skirts respectively, creating panels to add evening drapes and volume to everyday clothing styles. Pleating was a key element in everything from cardigans and shirts to trousers and T-shirt dresses. “The key point is that by integrating feminine folds and folds into masculine tailoring, a genderless aesthetic is created,” says Takahashi. It also adds a layer of pizzazz to the most ordinary clothes, something few designers do with more aplomb than Takahashi.
Elsewhere, Takahashi split open the backs of jackets, hoodies and button-downs and tied up the loose ends. The results are playfully aerodynamic and decidedly simple. There is no need for heavy concepts and lofty statements when clothes are made with the wearers in mind. This fashion speaks for itself.