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Collagen banking is the buzzy skincare term du jour for ways to maintain more hydrated, glowing skin. But what exactly is collagen banking? Think of it as a preventative rather than a corrective, with the aim of strengthening and maintaining your collagen reserve before the signs of aging appear. But is the practice worth the hype? Ahead, we’ll delve deeper into whether collagen banking works, is here to stay, or is just a fleeting trend.
What is collagen?
Collagen is a naturally occurring protein that is one of the main building blocks of the skin, as well as our bones, fascia, tendons, ligaments and other connective tissues. After water, it is the most abundant molecule in our body, affecting about 25-35 percent of our body proteins, says Dendy EngelmanMD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in New York City. “In the skin, it provides resilience and structure, giving it a firm, smooth, ‘bouncy’ appearance that is accompanied by a healthy, radiant appearance,” Ryan TurnerMD, a board-certified dermatologist from New York and co-founder of TRNR Skin say. “However, as we age, our collagen deteriorates, causing the skin to thin, sag and lose volume, leading to lines, folds and laxity.”
Experts in this article
- Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAADboard certified dermatological surgeon at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue in New York City
- Kiran Mian DO, FAADKiran Mian DO, FAAD, is a dermatologist providing medical and cosmetic services in NYC
- Purvisha Patel, MDcertified dermatologist and founder of Visha Skincare
- Robyn Gmyrek, MDboard-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm
- Ryan Turner, MDa board-certified dermatologist, and founder of Turner Dermatologybased in New York City
What is collagen banking?
Experts say you should think of collagen banking as a savings account for your skin. You add more to your reserve so that you have the largest possible supply, ready to draw from when the body’s natural collagen production begins to decline. Dr. Turner calls it a “prevention” strategy of lifestyle choices, skin care products and treatments based on building collagen while maintaining existing levels to maintain firm, supple and resilient skin as you age.
He notes that collagen is also deteriorated by exposure to smoking and environmental factors such as UV and pollution. Considering that the collagen produced by older tissue is not as high quality as when we are younger, supporting its production during the years when our skin is still making it at peak levels can help our skin increase its resilience and plumpness . “It is always easier to prevent collagen loss or damage than to repair it,” Robyn GmyrekMD, a board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm says, especially since we start losing one percent of collagen per year from age 25, with a sharper decline after menopause.
When should you start using collagen banks?
Collagen banking should be done throughout life, but the adage “prevention is better than cure” applies when it comes to the skin. “Studies show that Collagen production can begin to decline once we reach our twenties. That’s why a proactive approach to skin health is so important,” says Dr. Turner.
Maintaining the health of your skin in your youth – even as early as childhood – is much easier than correcting damage in later years. “Teens and younger,” says Dr. Engelman, “should avoid the highly active skin care products recommended for increasing collagen production in adults.” Instead, they should get their collagen from a healthy, balanced diet with high-quality protein sources, leafy greens, vitamin C and other recommended nutrients. Above the age of 16 says Dr. Dendy that you can start integrating skin care products and practices (a moisturizing cleanser And moisturizerwear SPF30etc.) that support collagen production.
Ways to practice collagen banking at home
First and foremost, it’s important to protect the collagen you already have. “UV rays, free radicals, stressors and other external aggressors can damage our collagen and accelerate its loss,” explains Dr. Engelman out. Protect your skin by wearing sunscreen daily, rain or shine, and using skin care with antioxidants, such as vitamin C, which helps fight the formation of free radicals and inflammation.
Dr. Engelman thinks retinol the “gold standard” of anti-aging due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and function as an antioxidant to protect the skin from oxidative stress. She likes it Figure 1: Retinol level up System, for both new and experienced retinol users, as it delivers clinically proven results and allows the skin to acclimatize at its own pace, with minimal irritation. If your skin doesn’t tolerate retinol, she recommends trying bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative that offers similar benefits without serious side effects.
She touts formulas with niacinamide (for collagen synthesis) or peptides, which are chains of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins like collagen) to help promote firmer skin. We love the Neogen Niacinamide Glow-Up Daily Facial ($35), a daily pad soaked in niacinamide, plant extracts, and ceramides to leave your face feeling hydrated. SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum ($295) is good for this too, with flaxseed, sea extract and peptides to hydrate and support a strong barrier. In addition to local treatments, Dr. Gmyrek for ordering a LED device for home-wavelengths of red or near-infrared light – to stimulate cellular energy to improve collagen production and elasticity. And while topical solutions are great, Dr. Gmyrek that you don’t have to clear the shelf of collagen creams because most formulas don’t penetrate the skin’s surface.
And when it comes to collagen supplements, the verdict is still out. Most experts surveyed pointed out that they are not a magic wand for your face. While some clinical evidence shows that animal collagen from bovine or fish can be beneficial (note: there are no studies yet showing that vegan derivatives actually work), there is still reason to be skeptical of their efficacy. “Collagen is a protein that, when ingested, is broken down into amino acids and distributed throughout your bloodstream. Your body will use those amino acids where it needs them,” explains Purvisha Patel, MD, a Memphis-based board-certified dermatologist. “There is no guarantee that it will be used for skin rejuvenation.” Finally, Dr. Engelman adds that eating a well-balanced diet that includes leafy greens, high-quality proteinsVitamins and minerals can help boost collagen production at any age.
In-office treatments that support collagen storage
Non-invasive or minimally invasive procedures that you get from your doctor are another way to up your game if you want to increase collagen production. Chemical peels And microneedling activate the body’s natural wound healing response to initiate the collagen process. Radio frequency (such as Thermage) boosts it with heat, while treatments that link RF to micro-needling (like the buzzing Morpheus and devices from Candela) provide more precise, deeper penetration. Dr. Gmyrek likes it PRP because it uses a patient’s growth factors and peptides to stimulate collagen production. Dr. Mian uses biostimulators, such as Sculptrato improve skin integrity.
In addition, ultrasound therapy (such as Soft wave And Ulthera) and laser treatments with ablative or non-ablative resurfacing, such as the Clear and brilliant and the Fraxel Double– are of the highest level for stimulating collagen and tightening the skin. Some include imaging technology that allows the provider to target different tissue depths. “These devices are great for people who experience mild to moderate collagen loss,” says Dr. Turner. However, these treatments usually require multiple sessions, so it can take up to six months before results are visible. The most important factor? Look for a competent supplier as these devices can damage the skin and deeper tissue if used incorrectly.
Last takeaway
Implementing collagen banking into your routine is a worthwhile investment for plumper, more hydrated skin in the long term. It’s never too late to start, but implementing the regimen while your collagen is still at its best is best if you want to look fresh.
“Trust the process,” says Dr. Gmyrek. “If you do nothing, collagen will continue to break down and build up, leading to thinner, wrinkled skin.” And remember: regardless of professional treatments or skin care products, lifestyle choices are important, so avoid smoking and use sunscreen dailyand be kind to yourself to build a solid foundation for hydrated, healthy skin that lasts.
Well+Good articles reference scientific, reliable, recent, robust research to support the information we share. You can trust us on your wellness journey.
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Varani, James, et al. “Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin.” The American Journal of Pathologyfull. 168, no. 6, June 1, 2006, pp. 1861–1868, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1606623/, https://doi.org/10.2353/ajpath.2006.051302. Accessed April 12, 2020.
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Wang, Hsiuying. “A Review of the Effects of Collagen Treatment in Clinical Trials.” Polymersfull. 13, no. 22, November 9, 2021, p. 3868, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8620403/, https://doi.org/10.3390/polym13223868. Accessed January 29, 2022.
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