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Metro Denver’s food scene has never been as vibrant as it is right now, something the food writers at JS and the rest of the staff at The Know understand. That’s why we go into the city as much as possible. Every month we give you recommendations on some of the dishes we’ve tried in recent weeks. Do you want to hear about it early? Subscribe to the Filled newsletter, where we introduce one of these dishes every Wednesday.
CôNu’s Corner Càfê and Bánh Mì sandwiches
The best part about biting into a really good bahn mi sandwich is that the crispy crusty baguette scares you for a moment because it feels like the crust is going to poke a hole in your palate, but instead gives way to the softer inside of the bread and then to the salty, savory and sometimes sweet filling that rises from the center.
That’s how it went with the Vietnamese pork barbecue sandwich (bánh mì thịt nướng) that I ordered at CôNu’s Corner Càfê, a unique combination of a convenience store (grab a bag of Taki’s, a Red Bull and a Lotto ticket) and café (grab a bowl of hot pho, spring rolls and a banh mi). It featured pork marinated in “a sweet and savory mixture of soy sauce, hoisin sauce, garlic, sugar and lemongrass before being grilled,” according to the menu. It is then composed with pickled vegetables, cucumber, cilantro and sliced jalapenos. It tasted delicious, the palate was safe. – Jonathan Shikes
4400 W. 29th Ave., Denver; conuscorner.com
Cleft lip: a place to eat
Split Lip, located in the Number Thirty Eight venue and bar, creates flavorful, chef-driven versions of casual regional dishes such as Nashville hot chicken, Oklahoma-style onion burgers and Buffalo Wings. The latter is of course perfect for football season, and Split Lip sells two types. The Alabama white barbecue sauce (vinegar, mayo) has a slow burn to its sweetness, while those made with Road Dawg hot sauce from Colorado’s own Sauce Leopard have more of a classic flavor and were thankfully less spicy than I expected. Both versions are brined for 24 hours before being smoked and then baked over a two-day process. – Jonathan Shikes
3560 Chestnut Place, Denver; splitlipeatplace.com
Samosa shop
Chef Dave Hadley takes his grandmother’s Indian recipes and turns them on their head at Samosa Shop, his Indian-American fusion farmers market pop-up turned in-house kitchen for Honor Farm, a downtown cocktail bar with a spooky theme. In addition to a rotating range of samosas, tacos and sandwiches, the two-time ‘Chopped’ champion also serves up a perfect bite with his Lamb Kabob Smashburger, made with lamb, a house-made sauce, dill and American cheese. Salt, fat, acid and heat combine to create a burger you won’t soon forget. —Jonathan Shikes
1526 Blake St.; samosashopco.com
Tokyo Premium Bakery
Earlier this month I researched and wrote a story about shokupan. This fluffy, sweet white milk bread is a favorite in Japan, especially for egg salad and fruit sandwiches sold in convenience stores. Several cafes and restaurants in Denver have started serving similar sandos, but you can buy your own hot loaves at Tokyo Premium Bakery and enjoy making your own sandwiches. That’s what I did starting with this recipe for a tamago sando – although there are some recipes online. The bread is like nothing else I’ve had before, and I’ve been craving it ever since. So I’ll probably go back to the bakery for another loaf. – Jonathan Shikes
1540 S. Pearl St., Denver; tokyopremiumbakery.com